Interview: Mountain runner and climber Kyle Richardson

Kyle Richardson is a mountain athlete who lives in Boulder, Colorado. His focus is a hybrid blend of endurance-speed climbing and running, known as FKT or fastest known time. Here is a link to the website that tracks FKT. Participants attempt to climb mountains or features of a mountain as quickly as possible, measuring the time it takes from car to the summit and back to the car ( known as car 2 car). His style is fast and light, covering many thousands of feet of elevation and miles of trail in short time periods, often scrambling and speed climbing free solo to save time.

check out his Stava page here: https://www.strava.com/athletes/5585543

and scope him on Instagram here: https://www.instagram.com/kylerichardson/?hl=en

 

 

What kind of athlete do you see yourself as?

I see myself as a Mountain Athlete. I let the terrain dictate the mode of transportation I choose to use in the mountains. ( i.e running, hiking, scrambling, climbing, biking) Being out in the landscape, pushing my body and being close to my limit. I always find that this provides a very raw and rewarding experience.

What kind of challenges inspires you these days?

Big linkups and enchainments of peaks gets me excited these days. Finding a logical and inspiring line is what gets me psyched. (Ex: the LA Freeway) The blend of running and climbing opens up the door for creativity in the mountains

How long have you been climbing?

6 years

How many days a week, on average, do you climb/ run outside?

I pretty much do some sort of activity 7 days a week

Annually do you ever take substantial periods of time off from climbing?

I take time off from climbing when I’m more focused on running based objectives. I try and climb inside Winter through Spring to get strong and then spend my time climbing outside in the Summer and Fall.

Do you train with weights on top of your outdoor climbing?

No

Do you train in a climbing gym on top of your outdoor climbing?

Normally I do not

 

How many days a week do you train on average?

I don’t see anything I do outside as training. I get outside because I love to be out in the landscape. I feel like this mindset is sustainable and I’m not attached to some sort of training regiment.

What kind of cardio training do you do, if any ?

When I’m resting from running, I will bike or climb. On days where I do nothing, I spend my time reading and playing music.

How does your eating and nutrition change as you approach a difficult linkup or project?

My eating and nutrition doesn’t ever really change. I just try to always eat a healthy and balanced diet. I have done this for lone enough that I know what is sustainable and what is not.

What do your rest days look like?

Active Recovery

How seriously do you take sleep, how many hours do you get on average?

6-8 hrs of sleep. It also depends on how focused I am on a project

Describe the week directly before a project? Do you rest more, eat differently, change any of your habits?

I definitely rest more leading up to a big race or objective. I keep my body moving but my volume decreases.

Describe the night before, and the morning of, a project redpoint day or a competition?

I try to keep everything normal before a big day. There is no need to change something the night of an event.

Any rules to live by?

Be true to yourself

 

 

Daisy Chains…. haha. I don’t know, I try not to think about this kind of stuff too much. I get annoyed by climbers that aren’t cautious on loose terrain. Too many close calls with rockfall.

What sets climbing apart from other sport?

The mental control and risk management

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Quick interview with Joe Kinder by Matt Lloyd

I sent over some breif questions for pro climber Joe Kinder,  as someone who’s been in the game for a long time i wqnted to know a few things about his climbing habits. Here are some quick answers to some quick questions. Take gander.

 

Question by Matt Lloyd

p.s – I stole all the photos from the interwebs… duh.

 

 

                                                                           Andrew Burr photo

 

What kind of athlete do you see yourself as?

Sport climber and route developer.

What kind of challenges inspires you these days regarding climbing / athletics?

Personal aesthetics that I identify with. Solidarity, un-done things, less hyped.

How many years have you climbed?
22

What’s the hardest route you have ever completed? – not necessarily the hardest grade although it might be.
9a+ Life Of Villains

How many days a week, on average, do you climb?
4-5

 

                                                                                      photo Javipec 

 

Annually do you ever take substantial periods of time off from climbing?

Not unless injured or depressed.

Do you train with weights on top of your outdoor climbing? If so example?

Hangboard yes.

Do you train in a climbing gym on top of your outdoor climbing? If so, bouldering or routes or both? 

both

Do you use a hangboard? If so whats an example of a workout you do?

Yes. I do a 7/53 protocol and I complex with campusing

How many days a week do you train on average?

3-4

Do you get in any accessory cardio? You know to keep that beach body ready

Rowing intervals or arc.

What do your rest days look like? ( do you do active rest or do you just rest, do you stretch, get a message, drink a bottle of whiskey blah blah )

Depends on many things, but usually yoga, lounge, hike, be a city boy

How does your eating and nutrition change as you approach a project?

I eat less and try to figure out the best foods for the performance days.

What is your favorite form of recovery? foam roller, ice baths etc

Lacross ball

How seriously do you take sleep, how many hours do you get on average?

When climbing full time I sleep 8-10 hours a day

Describe the week directly before a project? Do you rest more, eat differently, change any of your habits?

Rest more. Taper from training. Like now.

How many burns can you put on a project in a day?
2

On an average day of climbing routes outside, how many would you climb?
4

Describe the night before, and the morning of, a project redpoint day or a competition?

I try not to drink.

Do you have any weird or odd rituals or habits that help you get in “ the zone” before attempting something hard?

Been working on that as I think it’s healthy, but it depends on the era and route.

Do you have a mantra, self-talk, or anything you tell yourself before and during competition?

I just breathe and try to tell myself positive things.

You have been on the forefront of climbing for a long time, any ninja tip or rules to live by?

Don’t do it for other people.

Do you have any quirky personal habits that help you succeed at your sport?

I’m goal oriented.

Any regrets pertaining to how and when you have climbed/ trained over the years?

I’ve become more patient and that’s helped a lot. Slowing down has helped.

What’s the most tries you have ever put on a route- and which route was it – what pushed you over the edge to the send eventually?

Life Of Villains. Well over 100 tries over 5 years.

Link here  to the story of the route 

Whats something climbers do that irks you?

Un-authentic people.

What sets climbing apart from other sports you have done? 

Lifestyle.

A video about joes training.

https://www.climbing.com/videos/climber-cribs-joe-kinders-traphouse-training-area/

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