My favorite workouts: Coach Jamie

I have two go-to climbing workouts: 

One that tests overall endurance, and one that works on power endurance. 

#1: Overall Endurance

Matt Lloyd and I created the first one together. 

You will do three movements:

  1. Box Step Ups
  2. Ski/Bike/Row for Calories (choose one)
  3. Climbing Moves

The rep scheme is 50-40-30-20-10

To break it down, you do 50 box step ups, then ski, bike or row 50 calories, then make your way over to the climbing wall and accumulate 50 climbing moves. 

Next, you do 40 box step ups, 40 calories and 40 climbing moves. 

Then 30, 20 and finally down to 10 of each. 

If you’re feeling really rowdy, do it with a weight vest!

#2: Power Endurance

This is a climbing “interval” workout. It’s easiest to do this with a partner, but not necessary:

1 Minute on the climbing wall (without coming down) / 1 Minute of rest (off the wall)

2 Minutes on the climbing wall / 2 Minutes of Rest

3 Minutes on / 3 Minutes off

2 Minutes on / 2 Minutes off

1 Minute on / 1 Minute off

What’s nice is this workout is very easily scaled easier or harder. 

You can change the amount of time on the wall (start with 20, 15 or even 10 seconds and build up from there), add a weight vest, or swap time for number of hand moves (i.e. 50 hand moves, 1 minute rest, 75 hand moves, 1:30 second rest). You get the idea – be creative and get after it!

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Try these climbing workouts

Try these complete training workouts taken directly from our 6 week intensive climbing training camp

Day 1 – Strength Training

Warm Up: Overhead foam roll on wall: 30-45 seconds, Subscap trigger point: 30-45 seconds (add arm slides and body rocks), Bear Rolls: 2-3 sets x 10/side, Climb 8 rounds of 25 moves or 4 rounds of hangboarding :06 on/ :04 off for :60 sec  

Strength Component: -4 rounds of: 12 (6x per arm) Single Arm Tempo Row (slow down-fast up, use a dumbbell or kettlebell) + 12 Bulgarian Split Squats with weight (stay light here!) -4 rounds of: 10 Deadlifts w/ a 30 sec hold, using your bodyweight + 8 Weighted Sit-ups (weight plate behind head)  

Recovery- Rehab: Double ball trigger point: 6-8 at each spot along spine, Prone arm lifts: 2-3 times through, ER with step away: 2-3 sets x 10-12/side, ER with forward press: 2-3 sets x 10-12/side, Side-lying KB rotation: 2-3 sets x 12-15 rotations/side 

  Day 2 – Climbing Skill and Technique 

Warm Up: 10 min of climbing easy moves, 10 pass throughs, 10 strict press, 5-10 scap pullups, 5-10 scap pushups, 10 wall squats 5 pass throughs, 5 strict press + 5 push press, 5-10 pullups, 5-10 pushups, 5 single arm circles each direction each arm, 10 air squats, 10 lunges (5 each leg) Stretch out your forearms and get them ready to work.  

Skill: 20 min practicing quiet feet and deliberate foot work. Climb an easy boulder or route as quickly as you can without making any noise. Each time you make noise, restart.  

Discuss and teach: red-point climbing tactics & how to send a project.  

Climbing: Create a hard project climb in which each move is doable but you are unable to link. Make the boulder 5-7 moves long. Once you have the moves memorized, give the boulder one effort every 3 min for 15 min – focusing on maximum try hard and climbing until you “fall” aka – don’t let go!  

Hangboard: First: Find maximum hang time on 1 pad edge (aiming for about :30-:60 sec). Then: Complete 10 hangs at 50% of your predetermined max hang time while wearing a weight vest, adding weight each round. Example: Max hang time 34 seconds, each round would be 17 sec adding 10# of weight each round starting from zero.

Recovery: stretch + 5 min ice tub forearms

For more training tomfoolery, check out our online training site here

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