Interview with gym owner and pro climber Andy Raether
A native of Minnesota who now calls Las Vegas, NV home. Andy owns and runs Origin, a state of the art climbing facility. Andy is a professional climber who has established new sport climbs up to 5.14D, bouldered V13 and won countless indoor climbing competitions.
I was able to corner him for a quick interview; check out what he has to say!
How many days a week do you train on average? Describe your average week of training…
Pretty much like clockwork I train 3 days a week, 2 indoor and one outdoor. In addition to that I have to forerun (climb routes in the gym to confirm the grades, often a mix of easy and hard climbing, but low volume) 3 different days a week as well. If I’m in bouldering season, two of the three days are power/strength and one is power-endurance. If it’s route season, two are power-endurance and one is power/strength.
What do your rest days look like?
Probably whiskey. Currently I only get one full rest day per week, but I’m honestly finding the forerunning to be fairly beneficial, because it ends up being a good warm up, but not a workout. Essentially a day where I get an active rest workout.
How does your eating and nutrition change as you approach a project?
It doesn’t. I might keep a closer watch on things, but honestly that shit is too stressful to do on your own.
What is your favorite form of recovery ? Foam roller, ice baths, etc.?
Hot tub, theracane, foam roller, lacrosse ball.
How seriously do you take sleep, how many hours do you get on average?
Sleep is hugely important. I try to get as much as I can, usually 7-10 hours is what I can get.
Describe the week directly before a project? Do you rest more, eat differently, change any of your habits?
Nah. The year before a project is what matters. Prepare, make goals, follow through.
Describe the night before, and the morning of a project, redpoint day or a competition…
The night before again is probably no different from any other. Get a good night sleep. Changing your habits in the extra short term only causes stress and can be detrimental. Unless your normal habits are shit to begin with, but therein may be a good place to improve ones performance without even having to workout.
Do you have any rituals or habits that help you get “ in the zone?”
Visualize the route, calm breathing, and focus.
Do you have a mantra you tell yourself before or during competition?
Don’t be a little bitch!
Actually, I just try to keep my mind as empty and focused as possible.
You have been competing and training for a long time, any ninja tips or rules to live by?
Get enough rest and recovery.
Plan ahead and make goals that are one year out, and follow through with your goals.
Be extremely competitive, but not too obsessive. It’s a fine line.
LEARN HOW TO ACTUALLY TRY HARD. I made a my first 14d FA this fall. I later found out that on the send I popped three ribs out of place, one wrist bone, and misaligned two vertebrae.
Do you have any quirky habits that help you succeed at your sport?
I almost without fail put on my left climbing shoe before my right. In the thousands of times that I’ve put climbing shoes on I doubt that I have skipped that more than 5 times…
watch a video of Andy Crushing rocks here :
Trackback from your site.