Posts Tagged ‘training’

Understanding High Intensity Training & How to Apply It: by Coach Anne

High intensity is an important part of training. If you are not pushing for increased intensity, you may not be getting the most out of your work outs.

Pay attention your next couple weeks of work outs. 

Do you have a day where you train to 100% effort? Or, are you pushing to 100% and then burning out every single work out? 

If you answer yes to either of these, it might be time to re-evaluate how you complete your work outs.

What does full, high intensity training feel like?

As an athlete, coach, and a nurse, I understand that pain perception and tolerance mean different things to different people. Every one perceives pain differently and can tolerate different levels of pain. That being said, feeling the pain or deep burn at least once a week is one important part to training. If you are uncomfortable with feeling uncomfortable, this should be a little bit of a wake-up call. Sometimes life hurts, and sometimes your work outs are supposed to as well!

By pushing the intensity, not only are you gaining physical benefits, but training to full capacity can also increase your work out mental game, confidence, and prepare you for competition and everyday life. It is also proven to be the only way to increase athletic performance in already well trained endurance athletes.

Disclaimer: Every single day should NOT be a max effort or 100% intensity. This can often lead to burn out and injury. The key is to listen to your body and balance your high intensity days with general conditioning and strength training. Also, form always trumps intensity. Make sure your form is solid before you increase intensity. Always clarify with your coach what the intended intensity for each work out is and make sure you have safe technique.

Short Work Outs:

When the work out is short (2-8 minutes) or indicates a max effort movement, that means full intensity and speed! Go as hard as you can for as long as you possibly can. You may burn out near the end, but sometimes that is OK! It is going to hurt, but that is OK too!  

Moderate Work Time:

For moderate length workouts (9-17 minutes) the pace should be up, but not a max effort the entire time. My suggestion is to begin at a steady pace (70%), then begin to increase your pace after the second half of the work out. 

Being able to sustain at an 80-85% pace for an extended period of time is a different type of pain. It requires mental and physical strength and is also a great way to improve your overall training.

Longer Work Out Time:

When working for 18-30+ minutes, you obviously cannot go as fast as possible can the entire time. These work outs are often designed for pacing and consistent movement. They are not intended for you to burn out half way through. However, this still means full effort (60-70%) and mental engagement for the time allotted. Get comfortable with being a little uncomfortable for longer periods of time.

Main Takeaway about High Intensity Training

Some work outs are supposed to very uncomfortable or painful. But not EVERY work out should leave you rolling around on the ground. When programmed well, they will help your overall fitness goals.

Remember that a little suffering from time to time will make you stronger!

Resources:

Check out some studies on High Intensity training.

Metabolic Adaptations to Short Term High Intensity(American College of Sports Medicine)

Alternating CardiorespiratoryFitness (Sports Medicine Journal)

The Scientific Basis for High Intensity Interval Training(Sports Medicine Journal)

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Quick interview with Joe Kinder by Matt Lloyd

I sent over some breif questions for pro climber Joe Kinder,  as someone who’s been in the game for a long time i wqnted to know a few things about his climbing habits. Here are some quick answers to some quick questions. Take gander.

 

Question by Matt Lloyd

p.s – I stole all the photos from the interwebs… duh.

 

 

                                                                           Andrew Burr photo

 

What kind of athlete do you see yourself as?

Sport climber and route developer.

What kind of challenges inspires you these days regarding climbing / athletics?

Personal aesthetics that I identify with. Solidarity, un-done things, less hyped.

How many years have you climbed?
22

What’s the hardest route you have ever completed? – not necessarily the hardest grade although it might be.
9a+ Life Of Villains

How many days a week, on average, do you climb?
4-5

 

                                                                                      photo Javipec 

 

Annually do you ever take substantial periods of time off from climbing?

Not unless injured or depressed.

Do you train with weights on top of your outdoor climbing? If so example?

Hangboard yes.

Do you train in a climbing gym on top of your outdoor climbing? If so, bouldering or routes or both? 

both

Do you use a hangboard? If so whats an example of a workout you do?

Yes. I do a 7/53 protocol and I complex with campusing

How many days a week do you train on average?

3-4

Do you get in any accessory cardio? You know to keep that beach body ready

Rowing intervals or arc.

What do your rest days look like? ( do you do active rest or do you just rest, do you stretch, get a message, drink a bottle of whiskey blah blah )

Depends on many things, but usually yoga, lounge, hike, be a city boy

How does your eating and nutrition change as you approach a project?

I eat less and try to figure out the best foods for the performance days.

What is your favorite form of recovery? foam roller, ice baths etc

Lacross ball

How seriously do you take sleep, how many hours do you get on average?

When climbing full time I sleep 8-10 hours a day

Describe the week directly before a project? Do you rest more, eat differently, change any of your habits?

Rest more. Taper from training. Like now.

How many burns can you put on a project in a day?
2

On an average day of climbing routes outside, how many would you climb?
4

Describe the night before, and the morning of, a project redpoint day or a competition?

I try not to drink.

Do you have any weird or odd rituals or habits that help you get in “ the zone” before attempting something hard?

Been working on that as I think it’s healthy, but it depends on the era and route.

Do you have a mantra, self-talk, or anything you tell yourself before and during competition?

I just breathe and try to tell myself positive things.

You have been on the forefront of climbing for a long time, any ninja tip or rules to live by?

Don’t do it for other people.

Do you have any quirky personal habits that help you succeed at your sport?

I’m goal oriented.

Any regrets pertaining to how and when you have climbed/ trained over the years?

I’ve become more patient and that’s helped a lot. Slowing down has helped.

What’s the most tries you have ever put on a route- and which route was it – what pushed you over the edge to the send eventually?

Life Of Villains. Well over 100 tries over 5 years.

Link here  to the story of the route 

Whats something climbers do that irks you?

Un-authentic people.

What sets climbing apart from other sports you have done? 

Lifestyle.

A video about joes training.

https://www.climbing.com/videos/climber-cribs-joe-kinders-traphouse-training-area/

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Interview with gym owner and pro climber Andy Raether

 

Andy Raether.

A native of Minnesota who now calls Las Vegas, NV home. Andy owns and runs Origin, a state of the art climbing facility. Andy is a professional climber who has established new sport climbs up to 5.14D, bouldered V13 and won countless indoor climbing competitions.

I was able to corner him for a quick interview; check out what he has to say!

How many days a week do you train on average?  Describe your average week of training…

Pretty much like clockwork I train 3 days a week, 2 indoor and one outdoor. In addition to that I have to forerun (climb routes in the gym to confirm the grades, often a mix of easy and hard climbing, but low volume) 3 different days a week as well. If I’m in bouldering season, two of the three days are power/strength and one is power-endurance. If it’s route season, two are power-endurance and one is power/strength.

What do your rest days look like? 

Probably whiskey. Currently I only get one full rest day per week, but I’m honestly finding the forerunning to be fairly beneficial, because it ends up being a good warm up, but not a workout. Essentially a day where I get an active rest workout.

How does your eating and nutrition change as you approach a project? 

It doesn’t. I might keep a closer watch on things, but honestly that shit is too stressful to do on your own.

What is your favorite form of recovery ?  Foam roller, ice baths, etc.?

Hot tub, theracane, foam roller, lacrosse ball.

How seriously do you take sleep, how many hours do you get on average? 

Sleep is hugely important. I try to get as much as I can, usually 7-10 hours is what I can get.

Describe the week directly before a project? Do you rest more, eat differently, change any of your habits? 

Nah. The year before a project is what matters. Prepare, make goals, follow through.

Describe the night before, and the morning of a project, redpoint day or a competition… 

The night before again is probably no different from any other. Get a good night sleep. Changing your habits in the extra short term only causes stress and can be detrimental. Unless your normal habits are shit to begin with, but therein may be a good place to improve ones performance without even having to workout.

Do you have any rituals or habits that help you get “ in the zone?”

Visualize the route, calm breathing, and focus.

Do you have a mantra you tell yourself before or during competition? 

Don’t be a little bitch!

Actually, I just try to keep my mind as empty and focused as possible.

You have been competing and training for a long time, any ninja tips or rules to live by? 

Get enough rest and recovery.

Plan ahead and make goals that are one year out, and follow through with your goals.

Be extremely competitive, but not too obsessive. It’s a fine line.

LEARN HOW TO ACTUALLY TRY HARD. I made a my first 14d FA this fall. I later found out that on the send I popped three ribs out of place, one wrist bone, and misaligned two vertebrae.

Do you have any quirky habits that help you succeed at your sport? 

I almost without fail put on my left climbing shoe before my right. In the thousands of times that I’ve put climbing shoes on I doubt that I have skipped that more than 5 times…

 

watch a video of Andy Crushing rocks here :

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Wednesday Night Alpine Climbing & Skiing Training

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fb_ad6Join us Wednesday 1/18/17 at 8pm for an alpine climbing and skiing training class.  Come in and refine your skills for winter in our 1 hour class designed to be exactly what you’re missing in your training for your winter adventures, $10 drop ins.  If you have technical boots, bring them.  Email info@mountainstrongdenver.com with any questions.  Click HERE to signup for class.

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