Posts Tagged ‘training’

Quick interview with Joe Kinder by Matt Lloyd

I sent over some breif questions for pro climber Joe Kinder,  as someone who’s been in the game for a long time i wqnted to know a few things about his climbing habits. Here are some quick answers to some quick questions. Take gander.


Question by Matt Lloyd

p.s – I stole all the photos from the interwebs… duh.



                                                                           Andrew Burr photo


What kind of athlete do you see yourself as?

Sport climber and route developer.

What kind of challenges inspires you these days regarding climbing / athletics?

Personal aesthetics that I identify with. Solidarity, un-done things, less hyped.

How many years have you climbed?

What’s the hardest route you have ever completed? – not necessarily the hardest grade although it might be.
9a+ Life Of Villains

How many days a week, on average, do you climb?


                                                                                      photo Javipec 


Annually do you ever take substantial periods of time off from climbing?

Not unless injured or depressed.

Do you train with weights on top of your outdoor climbing? If so example?

Hangboard yes.

Do you train in a climbing gym on top of your outdoor climbing? If so, bouldering or routes or both? 


Do you use a hangboard? If so whats an example of a workout you do?

Yes. I do a 7/53 protocol and I complex with campusing

How many days a week do you train on average?


Do you get in any accessory cardio? You know to keep that beach body ready

Rowing intervals or arc.

What do your rest days look like? ( do you do active rest or do you just rest, do you stretch, get a message, drink a bottle of whiskey blah blah )

Depends on many things, but usually yoga, lounge, hike, be a city boy

How does your eating and nutrition change as you approach a project?

I eat less and try to figure out the best foods for the performance days.

What is your favorite form of recovery? foam roller, ice baths etc

Lacross ball

How seriously do you take sleep, how many hours do you get on average?

When climbing full time I sleep 8-10 hours a day

Describe the week directly before a project? Do you rest more, eat differently, change any of your habits?

Rest more. Taper from training. Like now.

How many burns can you put on a project in a day?

On an average day of climbing routes outside, how many would you climb?

Describe the night before, and the morning of, a project redpoint day or a competition?

I try not to drink.

Do you have any weird or odd rituals or habits that help you get in “ the zone” before attempting something hard?

Been working on that as I think it’s healthy, but it depends on the era and route.

Do you have a mantra, self-talk, or anything you tell yourself before and during competition?

I just breathe and try to tell myself positive things.

You have been on the forefront of climbing for a long time, any ninja tip or rules to live by?

Don’t do it for other people.

Do you have any quirky personal habits that help you succeed at your sport?

I’m goal oriented.

Any regrets pertaining to how and when you have climbed/ trained over the years?

I’ve become more patient and that’s helped a lot. Slowing down has helped.

What’s the most tries you have ever put on a route- and which route was it – what pushed you over the edge to the send eventually?

Life Of Villains. Well over 100 tries over 5 years.

Link here  to the story of the route 

Whats something climbers do that irks you?

Un-authentic people.

What sets climbing apart from other sports you have done? 


A video about joes training.

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Interview with gym owner and pro climber Andy Raether


Andy Raether.

A native of Minnesota who now calls Las Vegas, NV home. Andy owns and runs Origin, a state of the art climbing facility. Andy is a professional climber who has established new sport climbs up to 5.14D, bouldered V13 and won countless indoor climbing competitions.

I was able to corner him for a quick interview; check out what he has to say!

How many days a week do you train on average?  Describe your average week of training…

Pretty much like clockwork I train 3 days a week, 2 indoor and one outdoor. In addition to that I have to forerun (climb routes in the gym to confirm the grades, often a mix of easy and hard climbing, but low volume) 3 different days a week as well. If I’m in bouldering season, two of the three days are power/strength and one is power-endurance. If it’s route season, two are power-endurance and one is power/strength.

What do your rest days look like? 

Probably whiskey. Currently I only get one full rest day per week, but I’m honestly finding the forerunning to be fairly beneficial, because it ends up being a good warm up, but not a workout. Essentially a day where I get an active rest workout.

How does your eating and nutrition change as you approach a project? 

It doesn’t. I might keep a closer watch on things, but honestly that shit is too stressful to do on your own.

What is your favorite form of recovery ?  Foam roller, ice baths, etc.?

Hot tub, theracane, foam roller, lacrosse ball.

How seriously do you take sleep, how many hours do you get on average? 

Sleep is hugely important. I try to get as much as I can, usually 7-10 hours is what I can get.

Describe the week directly before a project? Do you rest more, eat differently, change any of your habits? 

Nah. The year before a project is what matters. Prepare, make goals, follow through.

Describe the night before, and the morning of a project, redpoint day or a competition… 

The night before again is probably no different from any other. Get a good night sleep. Changing your habits in the extra short term only causes stress and can be detrimental. Unless your normal habits are shit to begin with, but therein may be a good place to improve ones performance without even having to workout.

Do you have any rituals or habits that help you get “ in the zone?”

Visualize the route, calm breathing, and focus.

Do you have a mantra you tell yourself before or during competition? 

Don’t be a little bitch!

Actually, I just try to keep my mind as empty and focused as possible.

You have been competing and training for a long time, any ninja tips or rules to live by? 

Get enough rest and recovery.

Plan ahead and make goals that are one year out, and follow through with your goals.

Be extremely competitive, but not too obsessive. It’s a fine line.

LEARN HOW TO ACTUALLY TRY HARD. I made a my first 14d FA this fall. I later found out that on the send I popped three ribs out of place, one wrist bone, and misaligned two vertebrae.

Do you have any quirky habits that help you succeed at your sport? 

I almost without fail put on my left climbing shoe before my right. In the thousands of times that I’ve put climbing shoes on I doubt that I have skipped that more than 5 times…


watch a video of Andy Crushing rocks here :

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Wednesday Night Alpine Climbing & Skiing Training


fb_ad6Join us Wednesday 1/18/17 at 8pm for an alpine climbing and skiing training class.  Come in and refine your skills for winter in our 1 hour class designed to be exactly what you’re missing in your training for your winter adventures, $10 drop ins.  If you have technical boots, bring them.  Email with any questions.  Click HERE to signup for class.

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